I’ve actually reviewed this pen before, in a post called Happy Fountain Pen Day. That post was an initial review, so this will be a more long term one after having the pen for about five months. Desiderata is a Black owned pen company based in Chicago, and they make excellent small batch fountain pens.
The BAMF has a large ebonite body with a glossy red ebonite grip section. The body and grip section are all one piece, except for a blind cap at the back where you can access the spring-loaded Pump Piston. The blind cap really blends in; I wasn’t sure where it was at first because the little striations in the ebonite match perfectly when the blind cap is screwed on. Unscrewing the blind cap reveals red ebonite threading, which is a nice surprise. The Pump Piston mechanism is very smooth with a titanium rod. The current webpage for this pen says that a new batch will be out in spring 2021 with an in-house screw piston rather than the spring-loaded one. As you can see in the photo above, the pen says “Bad Ass Motherfucker” on it. The engraving is really subtle, which is nice if you have kids unless they pick the pen up to look at it.
The BAMF can be ordered with a Zebra G nib, Jowo nibs from EF to 1.1mm italic, or a Nemosine 0.6mm stub. I went with the Nemosine nib, and it’s great. The stub is very round and forgiving enough that my girlfriend and I can both enjoyably write with it. I can overwrite and underwrite with it; I didn’t know stubs could be like this. Even with the fine stub, there’s still line variation. While overwriting, there is less line variation for me but still enough that my handwriting has some character. I’ve tried two different inks in this pen: Noodler’s Q’ternity and KWZ Honey. Q’ternity is a thick blue-black that writes very smoothly and dries fairly quickly. Honey is one of the few brown shading inks I’ve found that actually dry. Honey doesn’t write as smoothly as Q’ternity, but it flows very well. When capped, this pen seals up enough that there have never been any hard-starts or skips.
While I’ve never dropped this pen, its durability is unquestionable. The smooth grip section is very comfortable while overwriting, and I really like the vintage style flare near the nib. If you’re interested in this pen, there’s a sign-up box to be notified when the new run is available. The BAMF sells for $188 USD.
The Kaweco Sport is a favorite among many fountain pen users for its small size and many color options. I’m a fan of pocket pens myself, and enjoy these little guys. The Sport line has many iterations besides the rainbow of standard plastic models; there are AL or aluminum models, carbon fiber, special acrylic, steel, and brass. You can also get the Sports in rollerballs, ballpoints, clutch pencils, and mechanical pencils. When Kaweco went under new ownership in 1994, they updated the design from a piston filler to the standard international cartridge/converter system. Vintage Sports with gold nibs and pistons can be found on eBay, and I hope to acquire one someday.
The first Sport I owned was a clear one with a medium nib. At first it had some baby’s bottom issues, but Kaweco customer service sent me a new nib, which worked fine. Baby’s bottom is where a nib is over polished so that the inside edges of the tipping material are rounded and don’t touch, inhibiting ink flow. Later, I tried a white Sport with a fine nib, but it had flow issues and only liked very wet inks. My third Sport is navy with an extra-fine nib, and it’s just right. The navy is a lovely deep blue color with gold trimmings. I added a black clip, which compliments the navy nicely. I ordered this pen from St. Louis Art Supply over the summer. They test all fountain pens over $20 USD before sending them off, and this Sport had the best out-of-box writing experience out of all the Sports I’ve tried.
The Sports are a good starter pen for lefties with small hands, or for anyone who wants a pocket pen. These pens are designed to be posted, but my hands are small enough to use the pen unposted if I’m just writing a quick note. Posting really helps keep the pen balanced. My grip happens to fall on the threads above the grip section, which is fine with the plastic models as the threads aren’t sharp.
Sports take short standard international cartridges, or Kaweco’s slide piston converter. Kaweco also makes a tiny squeeze converter, but I’ve found that they don’t work very well and come apart easily. I’ve also found that Kaweco pens write better with non-Kaweco inks, except for their Pearl Black, which wrote great every time. Lubricated inks like Monteverde come in cartridges and seem to flow smoothly. Faber-Castell cartridges also work well. I haven’t tried Herbin or Diamine cartridges, but I know their inks work well out of the bottle.
If you don’t want to use cartridges, or are bothered by Kaweco’s converters, plastic Sports are able to be converted into eyedropper pens by applying silicone grease to the barrel threads. You can add an o-ring as well but the silicone grease works just fine.
Eyedroppering is especially nice with clear barrel models such as the clear classic, and any of the ice series. In the picture above, I’ve filled this pen with Noodlers Blue Nosed Bear. This is a super wet ink, so the fact that I was able to write with this and enjoy it means that this medium nib was a very dry writer. I’ve taken notes with my navy Sport, and it flowed well, but the design of the pen makes it impractical for start/stop applications unless you’re able to use the pen unposted. When I was first trying to write with my clear Sport that had baby’s bottom, the pen wouldn’t flow consistently when I was holding the pen at a high angle. My girlfriend tried using it while holding the pen at a lower angle and she was able to get a consistent flow. I’m not sure how common baby’s bottom is for Kaweco nibs, but it is an issue to look out for. If you’re a lefty over writer beginning their fountain pen journey with a Sport and you encounter baby’s bottom, please don’t be discouraged because there is always another nib.
I love Kaweco as a brand, and love all of my pens from them, but the quality control on their nibs can be uneven. I once bought a double broad Kaweco nib, and it didn’t have a slit. Fortunately, all of their pens except for the Supra take the same nib, so it’s easy to swap nibs once you’ve found one that you really like. All Kaweco nibs are friction fit inside a plastic housing. On all metal sectioned models, this housing can just be screwed in and out. On all plastic sectioned models, the housing is stuck inside the section and is not able to be removed. To remove a Kaweco nib from its housing, use a rubber grip or jar opener and pull it out by holding the nib at the tapered part of the feed. Kaweco feeds are a lot more durable than (for example) TWSBI feeds, so these pens are good to practice on if you’re a beginner nib swapper. Lamys are good for practice as well, but you can’t play around with other nib brands.
Every version of the Sport will have its own writing experience, which is why the AL-Sport will have its own post. Besides the fountain pen, I’ve also tried the rollerball and the clutch pencil, which are both pleasant to use and will also have their own posts in time. You can purchase your own Sport wherever fine writing instruments are sold. The plastic models generally sell for about $25 to $30 USD.
When I was researching this pen, looking for reviews, I could only find ones written for the original iteration of this model. Franklin Christoph changed their design of this pen since then, so I’d like to review the Model 25 in its current, sleek form.
The Franklin Christoph Model 25 Eclipse is one of the most unique pen designs I’ve ever seen. The clip is on the body of the pen, head side, so that the nib is always facing downward when the pen is clipped to a pocket. The cap is short and seals up the nib very nicely. To post the cap, you just slip it under the clip. This makes a very satisfying click, and then an audibly satisfying click when you remove the cap. The cap threads are close to the nib and out of the way of your grip, which means that the rest of the body is one smooth surface. The clip is engraved with a diamond pattern, and the finial is engraved with the Franklin Christoph logo.
When I ordered this pen in mid-December, the color available was vintage green. This resin is slightly translucent, you can see the threads inside and a little bit of the converter. The green is warm and sophisticated, and the build quality is superb. The threads on the body are engineered so that the clip and nib are always aligned. The nib is semi-hooded and cannot be easily removed. If you want to swap out the nib, FC recommends that you send it to them. If you like to live dangerously, you can contact FC for instructions on how to remove the nib.
The Model 25 is my first Franklin Christoph pen, and it lived up to my expectations. I ordered my pen with a high performance steel fine nib. The FC website says that the high performance steel “is more like gold today than most nibs you’ll find through pen history.” This nib definitely feels different than a standard stainless steel nib, it’s delightfully smooth. When I first inked up this pen, I used a Pelikan Aquamarine cartridge. I wanted to make clean-up as easy as possible, since the nib can’t be easily removed. Unfortunately that ink is pretty dry, and the pen kept hard-starting. I took out the cartridge, cleaned the pen and inked up with TWSBI Midnight Blue. Midnight Blue is much wetter, and the Model 25 hard-started much less, but didn’t like writing in short bursts. Next, I tried Iroshizuku Kon-Peki. Kon-Peki is just right, it flows very well. I had hard-starting issues with Midnight Blue before, and wanted to see if maybe that ink would work better in a different pen, but it’s a finicky ink.
The cap thread placement that I mentioned earlier makes the Model 25 very comfortable for those who grip their pen high on the section, like me. The diameter of this pen is wide enough that my thumb doesn’t dig into my index finger while writing, which has been a problem for me with narrower pens. Overall, I really enjoy this pen and feel that it’s worth the investment for those looking to dip their toes in the Franklin Christoph waters. FC releases this pen as a special edition model periodically throughout the year, one color at a time. At this time of my writing this post, the vintage green model is sold out. The Model 25 is $155.00 USD (with a steel nib and no special grinds) on the Franklin Christoph website.
Iroshizuku is Pilot’s higher end line of inks that are available in all the colors of the rainbow. The ink that I’ve chosen to write about today is Yama-Budo, a lovely burgundy color. This inks shades from fuchsia to plum, and on certain papers it’ll sheen a nice gold. In the photo above, the sheen looks almost chartreuse.
Yama-Budo is very well behaved, like most Iroshizuku inks. It flows well out of every pen that I’ve tried it in, and isn’t too wet. On this Nock Co. paper that I’m writing on it dries very fast. Also, Yama-Budo doesn’t feather or bleed-through. On absorbent papers like Leuchtturm and Nock, this ink is very lefty compatible, especially with finer nibs. On the Tomoe River paper pictured above there’s some smudging, but once this ink dries it doesn’t lift.
As far as inks on the red/purple spectrum go, Yama-Budo is right in the middle. It’s bright enough to draw attention to notations, and dark enough to use as a regular note taking ink. It’s a personal favorite of mine, and it’s among the handful of Iroshizuku colors that I keep coming back to.
Iroshizuku inks come in these nice sturdy glass bottles, with minimalist labeling and a little dip in the bottom to help get all the ink out. Yama-Budo is an old friend that you can call after a long period of time and pick up right where you left off.
If you would like to purchase this ink, please click here. This is an Amazon affiliate link. If you click on it and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission from the sale. It’s a way to support this blog directly!
My girlfriend, who is a righty, has been looking for a really fine-nibbed pen to take notes with at work on small pieces of paper. She recently got a Sailor Pro Gear Slim in fine, and a Sailor 1911S with a 21k zoom nib. She got a zoom nib so that it could eventually be ground into an extreme predator nib, which is an extra fine held normally and an architect when flipped over. We both have TWSBI minis in EF, and she always writes EF in quotes because it’s not fine enough. So last week, she decided to try and write with that pen with the nib flipped over (or reverse writing) and had a great experience!
I’ve been afraid to try reverse writing since I ruined my first fountain pen by doing that. Now that I’m more versed in the way of the fountain pen, my girlfriend encouraged me to try it again because the ink will dry faster while writing quick notes.
The photo above is a sample of both my girlfriend and I trying out some currently inked pens while reverse writing. Gold nibs ended up working well across the board, while steel nibs ended up being more finicky. The Pelikan m200 and MontBlanc Monte Rosa are both steel nibs that performed very well reversed. The m200 is normally quite broad for a fine nib, and with Noodler’s Golden Brown it’s extra wet. Reversed though, the nib is more akin to a Japanese fine. In the photo below I tried to get a close-up of the Pelikan nib. The tip is pretty ball shaped, with some raised tipping material on top. Theoretically, any nib with raised tipping material like that should work for reverse writing.
Now the MontBlanc, written in green on the sample page, is an elevated reverse experience. Both me and my girlfriend loved writing with this, it’s great.
The Monte Rosa is a vintage pen by MontBlanc, the model I have is from the late 1950s. The nib is labeled medium on the piston knob but the tip is upturned like a waverly nib. I don’t know if all MontBlanc steel nibs are like this, or if this nib was worked on at some point in its lifetime, but it writes very smoothly. Writing reversed at a high angle you’re using more of the ball at the top of the nib. So, you get a finer line without sacrificing smoothness or ink flow. Writing reverse with this pen is what I imagine writing with a kugel nib feels like. I just found out about that type of nib yesterday and I’m very excited about them.
Using the two zoom nibs was interesting because I didn’t know how versatile they are, or how nice 21k nibs feel. The tips are ground into a triangle shape, so the lower the angle you hold the pen, the broader the line. For me, using my zoom nib at a nearly 90 degree angle gave about a medium line. When reverse writing though, no matter what angle the writer holds the pen, they’re using the pointiest and finest part of the nib. I didn’t try reverse writing with a fude nib but I imagine it would have a similar outcome.
The finest line I was able to get was with a Pilot Custom 98 with a #3 fine nib.
This nib doesn’t have much tipping on top, but the nib seems slightly downturned with a round point. With this I was able to write as tiny as I can with a 0.4mm Hi-tec Maica. I also have a Pilot Legno 89s with the same size fine nib, but it writes less smoothly than the Custom 98 no matter what. I took a close-up of them side by side and I think the 98 tip is a little bit rounder and blunter. I did purchase the Custom 98 used and the Legno new, so the older nib is more worn in.
The Pilot Custom 912 with a Waverly nib gave a similar experience to the Monte Rosa but the 912 just has the upturned tip and no ball on top. This nib is fantastic anyway, and is so pleasing to write with for a lefty like me because you’re always writing at the correct position. With reverse writing, it’s like you’re using a posting nib because it ends up being downturned. You get a considerably finer line that could probably be used for writing checks.
The most surprising pen to try with this experiment was a Pilot Falcon, not the most lefty friendly pen. But, it writes really well reversed. I have it inked up with Namiki black right now, which is normally really wet out of this pen, but reversed it’s just the right amount of wetness. While overwriting normally with a Falcon I usually use light pressure so that the tines don’t catch on the paper, but reversed I haven’t had to worry about that.
The Vanishing Point Decimo was another surprise for both me and my girlfriend. This is another pen that is problematic for lefty overwriters because of the clip by the nib. Reverse writing with the Decimo was weird, and I still didn’t find it comfortable to hold.
Overall, this experiment was fun and revealing. Reverse writing doesn’t work with every pen, but Japanese gold nibs had more consistent results. I recommend trying out reverse writing with your pens if you like writing tiny and fast drying ink.
On this very special day for the fountain pen enthusiast I’d like to say hi and thank you to the small handful of people who’ve decided to follow this blog recently!
Today isn’t a new pen day, but last week my Desiderata BAMF came in the mail. Here are some initial thoughts, a full review will come later.
The BAMF is an all ebonite pen from the Desiderata Pen Company. This is the first handmade small batch pen I’ve purchased. The BAMF is meant to have a Zebra G dip pen nib in it, but there is the option to just have a regular fountain pen nib. I opted for a Nemosine 0.6 mm stub.
The 0.6 mm stub nib is very nice to write with. My girlfriend and I can both write with it and the writing experience is the same. This nib can even be used while over-writing, and it’s still smooth. The tip is very round, making it much more forgiving for a lefty than a 1.1 mm stub.
The BAMF has a stealth blind cap on the back of the pen to reveal a pump piston filling mechanism. This system is very similar to a TWSBI Go, but you can’t see how much ink is in your pen. Overall, I really like the BAMF. It’s very comfortable to hold and the nib is very lefty friendly.
The first fountain pen that I purchased was the TWSBI Go. I watched Brian Goulet’s videos about the Go, and how it compared to the Eco. I think I ended up purchasing the Go because it seemed simple, and it was 10$ cheaper. I ordered the smoke grey color with a medium nib.
The day before I received my Go, I got a concussion at work and ended up taking medical leave. The morning of pen arrival, I took my first trip to stationary heaven called St. Louis Art Supply. So before the Go even got delivered, I purchased a Kaweco Sport and Perkeo both with medium nibs. I included this little story to say that I then had a lot more free time to fiddle with fountain pens, and that I no longer have the two Kaweco pens, but I still have the Go.
The TWSBI Go has a spring loaded piston filling mechanism and a snap cap! It comes in smoke grey, blue and clear. This is also by far the easiest non-cartridge filler to completely disassemble. You just unscrew the barrel, then turn the piston cap clockwise to remove that. Then you slide off the spring and turn the little metal sleeve counter-clockwise to take that off. Now you can remove the piston and clean the inside of the ink chamber.
The Go is a thick but light pen. The grip section tapers down with slight protrusions close to the nib so that your fingers don’t slip down while writing. I found that while learning to adjust my grip, this pen was still comfortable to hold. The smooth, wet nib and light weight also cause no hand fatigue. Having written with the Kaweco Perkeo and a Lamy Al-Star before this, the Go was a nice change of pace because I could hold the pen in a way that was most comfortable for me while overwriting. The Kaweco Sport also has a round section, but it’s slimmer and requires a tighter grip. The Go can be posted, and it looks a bit ridiculous, but it makes no difference in how the pen feels while writing.
I’ve tried a few different brands of ink in my Go, from Iroshizuku and Noodlers to Kyoto and Monteverde. The medium nib is pretty wet, and I’ve smudged a few times with certain inks like Noodlers Golden Brown. I know that Golden Brown is a very wet ink for flex nibs, but I love brown inks. With fast drying inks like Robert Oster, or dry in general inks like Lamy, the medium nib works great. Early on I had some burping issues, but pushing down the piston very gently to get some excess air out helps. You’ll be able to see the little bubbles come out of the opening in the feed. When the bubbles stop and it’s just ink coming out, keep your finger on the piston and slowly let it slide back into place. One thing about the Go that other TWSBI models don’t have is a little notch inside the section for the feed to sit flush in. I didn’t put the feed in correctly one time and ink spilled out.
I would recommend the TWSBI Go as a beginner pen for lefties because it’s comfortable to hold while learning how to write with a fountain pen. It’s easy to take apart and fill, and the plastic is durable enough to withstand dropping. There are many great options for beginner/starter pens, but for those who want a durable and inexpensive piston filler, you can’t go wrong with the TWSBI Go. This pen retails for 20$ USD and comes in smoke grey, blue and clear.
If you would like to purchase this pen for yourself, please click here. This is an Amazon affiliate link. If you click on it and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission from the sale. It’s a way for you to support this blog while ordering a new pen!
In my last post, I wrote about how I restored this little guy. If you’re interested in reading, please click here.
This Sheaffer Balance jr. is from about 1934. Its slender size and shape make it a nice pocket pen, and great for small hands. As you may have been able to tell by the name, this pen feels balanced. While I was researching the history of this pen, I read that the bottom of the cap below the band can develop hairline cracks from posting. I have written with this pen posted, but after reading that I’ve stopped posting. For me, the Balance is long enough to write comfortably unposted.
This particular Balance has a dark green celluloid body that catches the light very nicely. The nib is a 14k Feather Touch. The tines are platinum plated and springy. I’ve found that this nib feels best when using a light hand. The feed is ebonite, and flows so well. Before this pen I had a loose Feather Touch nib that I tried to put into several different modern pens, but I never got a good fit so the nib never wrote well. Now that I’ve written with a proper Feather, I enjoy it very much.
The above photo is a writing sample on Apica CD paper. The ink is Organics Studio Barkley’s Blue Teal, which is safe for vintage pens. This ink flows very nicely, the only time this pen has dried up was when it ran out of ink. Like most vintage pens, the Balance is a lever filler. When you lift up the lever on the outside of the pen, a pressure bar inside compresses the latex sac and ink is drawn into the pen. These pens aren’t meant to be taken apart all the time, so it’s best to find an ink that works well and to stick with it.
The Balance writes well on all three papers that I tested it on. On smooth paper like Tomoe River, the nib glides like a feather in the air (I’ll show myself out). On the Midori and Apica, there was a bit more feedback, but not so much that writing was unpleasant. When overwriting and holding the pen vertically, the Balance is smoothest for me. Underwriting feels scratchier, and ink flow is the same as when I overwrite.
Since restoring this pen, I’ve filled it twice. Because the latex sac is small to fit in this short pen, the ink capacity is low. You also can’t know how well you filled the pen until you run out of ink. The Sheaffer Balance jr. works very well for lefty overwriters like me, as well as anyone who holds their pen at a higher angle. I found this pen on eBay for under 40 U.S. dollars unrestored, but Balances that are in better condition and restored will sell for a higher price.
About a year ago I purchased a Sheaffer Balance from the early 1930s on eBay. From the photos I knew that it would need some work, but I wanted a fixer-upper. A previous owner had carved their initials into the body and cap of the pen, but the whole body was in otherwise good vintage condition. When the pen arrived I took some pictures:
The nib really needed polishing, and I wanted to try to buff out the carved initials and shine her up. I wanted to buy a vintage pen to restore because I wanted the satisfaction of bringing a pen back from the dead. Previously I had bought a different Sheaffer model, but broke the feed because I didn’t read up on how to take apart a vintage pen. I didn’t want to mess this one up so I tried to read thoroughly about the Balance models. This particular pen is a non white dot Balance Jr. in marine green celluloid from about 1934. The nib is a 14K Feather Touch, the tip is plated with platinum and has some flex. The little breather hole in the nib is heart shaped. Here is a forum post on the history of the Balance pens. Here is another page that I read about these pens.
After using a hairdryer on low heat to loosen any shellac that got in between where the section and body meet, I was able to take the pen apart. The ink sac had hardened and dried over time, so I picked out those pieces with these sac tweezers. After I got all the old sac out I rinsed the pen and made sure to let it dry completely before doing anything else to prevent rusting of any metal inside the pen. Then I started on polishing out the name engraving. I used a 1500 grit micro mesh pad dipped in water. I was able to mostly get the cap nice and smooth, but the body still needs work. I used 8000 grit micro mesh first, and then I used micro gloss to polish the pen to a shine.
To clean the nib I used this polishing cloth, and it works great. I was able to get all the dried ink off except for a little spot near the section. I feel very lucky that the tines aren’t splayed and are aligned.
Like a lot of vintage pens, this one is a lever filler. Inside the pen there is a pressure bar or j-bar that squeezes the sac, allowing ink to fill the sac. After I opened the pen I used a flashlight to check the pressure bar. It worked fine but I was worried that the metal might have corroded, so I resolved to get the bar out to get a better look. It took months for me to get that thing out, because I would try for a little bit and then stop for several weeks. I finally found a long pair of tweezers with a downward curved nose at an art supply store, and with those I was able to get the bar out by pushing downward and wedging it out. I ended up ordering a new pressure bar, because I didn’t want to mess with 80 year old metal. In hindsight, I wish that I had just left the original bar in because it works quite well and was already in the pen.
Once the new pressure bar came in the mail I made an attempt at inserting it. If you ever try to replace a pressure bar yourself, I highly recommend using a headlamp to see what you’re doing. I used my phone flashlight, but this is a two-handed operation. I got the bar in the pen and pushed it in, but it was slightly off from the lever. After trying to align the bar off and on for a few months I finally remembered that I have a headlamp. When I used it, I was able to rotate the bar with my pliers enough that it aligned with the lever. The pressure bar itself has little grooves that the teeth on the lever sit in. The bar that I bought is a simple one, and the metal is stiff compared to the original, so unfortunately I can’t compress the sac as much as if I had left the original in the pen.
Sac replacement, like any other step in the restoration process, takes patience. You can get black latex sacs or clear silicone sacs. The sacs come in several numbered sizes, so you can pick the size closest to the length of your pen and then trim it with scissors to fit. It’s important to trim the sac so that it fits flush on the section nipple.
Something that I learned late in the game is that the sac needs to be dusted with pure talc powder (not talcum), so that the pressure bar can compress the sac without friction. I purchased a different vintage pen that had been restored, but the sac hadn’t been dusted with talc powder, so the sac ended up tearing. Talcum powder will not work because the added chemicals will react with the latex and break it down. Once the sac is trimmed, I spread a little shellac on the nipple and used my fingers to try and get the sac on. After a few tries I was able to get the sac on, but I’m sure it’s much easier to use something to hold the sac open. Then the whole section needs to sit and dry for 24 hours before putting the pen back together. Now it’s time to dust the sac with talc! I did this outside with gloves and a mask on, because talc is messy and dangerous to inhale.
Once I put the pen back together I wiped off any talc that got on the section and body, and then filled the pen with ink. To do that you just lift the lever about 4 times, keeping the lever up for a few seconds each time so that more ink can flow in. I wanted to make a post just about the restoration process; a review of the pen and how it writes will be a separate post. Here is a link to the Anderson Pens repair tools page for all the supplies you might need!
When I first ordered this pen, I was nervous because a lot of reviews had mentioned a sweet spot on the nib, but I took a chance and ended up pleasantly surprised!
The Lamy 2000 is made of makrolon with a brushed metal grip section. It has a snap cap and is a piston filler. The metal section makes the pen a little bottom heavy while writing, but then the user doesn’t have to apply as much pressure with their hands. As someone who holds their pen vertically, the weight helps with ink flow. My girlfriend made a good point to me the other day about posting pens. She has small hands and generally doesn’t post because the added weight makes the pen off balance as it rests between her thumb and index finger. I also have small hands, but because the pen is resting on my middle finger (see photos below), the weight doesn’t effect balance as much. I prefer to post because length is more of a factor for me in balance and comfort. If the pen is long enough, then the weight of the pen can be distributed more evenly between my middle finger and the space between my index and thumb.
As for the nib, I have not had any issues with a sweet spot. I keep this pen inked with Lamy turquoise, and the flow is wet enough that writing is nice and smooth, but not so wet that the ink smudges as I drag my hand across the page. I’ve been using this pen to take notes for an online class because it has a snap cap, and because I don’t have ink smudging issues. Since I’ve started writing more extensively with this pen, my hand starts to hurt after writing a third of a page. I think the reason for this is that the grip section is tapered towards the nib and is smooth metal, so I find myself gripping the pen tighter than usual and end up with a cramping hand. This could also be because of the way I have my fingers oriented on the pen, with my index and thumb applying the most pressure.
I haven’t always held my pens this way, but this is how I’ve adapted my grip over the last year to be able to write legibly with a fountain pen. In school I learned to write by having my index finger controlling the pen with my thumb wrapped around it and touching my index finger.
With my adapted grip it definitely feels like I have more control over the pen. I feel like I can write neater, but my original grip is more comfortable because I wrote like that from when I was 5 all the way to 25. How do you hold your pen? Have you changed your grip over time? Please comment to let me know!
The Lamy 2000 is a very nice pen. I am still pleasantly surprised at how much I like it, but I cannot recommend it for lefty over-writers like myself because of the hand cramping issues I’ve had. Your mileage may vary as everyone holds their pen differently. This pen retails for about $150 USD and comes in black makrolon.
If you would like to purchase this pen for yourself, please click here. This is an Amazon affiliate link, if you click on it and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission from the sale. It’s a way for you to support this blog directly!
PS: I will no longer be giving smudged finger ratings as it feels very arbitrary.